The Time Capsule | Roy Marshall

In a barber shop years ago, I heard two old men talk about hunting mushrooms. One said he’d found a nice bunch of ramps. I had no idea what a ramp was, and asked. “You wouldn’t like ‘em,” he said, and went back to mushrooms.

They’re not mushrooms, but I do like ‘em. So did American Indians and early settlers, in part because ramps were the first edible green of spring. They’re comparatively easy to find, although demand from high-end restaurants on the East Coast has caused this member of the allium family to become endangered in some states. Iowa, fortunately, is not one of them.

This spring has been about the fifth in a row that Wife and I didn’t find a morel. Our disappointment was eased by ramps. I suppose the mild winter and early spring were good for the little plant with a flavor something like leeks, except better.

How tasty are ramps? As I write this, a culinary website in our nation’s capital (“D.C Ramps Hot Map” for those who might be going) reports that fresh ramps are available in 21 area establishments. They won’t last long, and you’d best have a reservation.

The upscale 1789 Restaurant, a block from the Georgetown Bridge, features ramps with North Carolina black bass and chickpeas. A short walk from Capitol Hill is The Fiola da Fabio Trabbochi, with offerings that include ramps and smoked caviar. At the Acadiana, its popular chef, Brant Tesky, turns ramp greens into his version of chimichurri, which is served atop a grilled New York strip. An accompaniment is ramp bulbs whipped to a mousse and stuffed into wild mushrooms. The BLT Steakhouse is offering a ramp-tasting special at the bargain price of $70 per person. Choices include spring pea soup with ramps, a mini crab-cake with ramp and ramp gribiche (their menu describes gribiche as a French mayo-type sauce with ramp, cornichons and herbs). Also available is “Lady and the Ramp,” a sort-of martini. A non-typical pizzeria in Falls Church has the allium lover’s dream: pizza topped with ramp, wild onions, garlic mustard and things I’ve never heard of.

And on and on it goes. Wife and I aren’t likely to try ramp with gribiche or caviar, but this spring we’ve enjoyed ramp and white cheddar soup, ramp pesto with pasta, creamed ramp with asparagus over ramp biscuits, ramp omelet, cod with ramp butter sous vide and grilled ramp on burgers – all at home.

Ramp is a perennial and, if properly harvested, can be taken from the same bed year after year. I drive to within 40 feet of where we get ours. Three years ago we transplanted young ones and they’re doing well, although additional growth is needed before we’ll start using it. While the entire plant is edible, horticulturalists warn that colonies may not recover if more than 10 percent of the bulbs are taken.

Iowa is reportedly the westernmost state where ramps are found, and for those wanting to try them, the season is nearly over. Their appearance is similar to Lily of the Valley, they like shady areas, deciduous trees, good soil, and abundant leaf mulch. Ramp sends up sprouts in the early spring, reaching a height of 10-12 inches. This year, seed pods formed in mid-May. Within days of flowering, the leaves turn bitter and the plants fade away, dormant until next spring.

Roy Marshall is a local historian and columnist for the Red Oak Express. He can be contacted at news@redoakexpress.com.

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