The Time Capsule: Liederkranz vs. Velveeta: Which is best?
A couple of years ago ‘The Time Capsule’ took a look back at Liederkranz cheese. I intended to do a follow-up, but the experiment went badly wrong.
Liederkranz interested me for several reasons. It is not found locally, is so expensive it must be good and comes with a story. It was created in the 1890s by Emil Frey, a noted Swiss cheese maker. The target audience for Liederkranz was German immigrants who were fond of a similar cheese made in the old country.
The original didn’t travel well, and often spoiled during the boat ride to New York. Frey, using various cultures and American ingredients, aging his cheeses on hardwood shelves that transmitted the characteristic taste from one batch to the next, came up with a similar cheese many liked even better.
Frey should be a hero today, but not for Liederkranz. He also is credited with inventing Velveeta.
On one hand he was responsible for a classic and exquisite old-world, special-occasion variety, and on the other, he was behind the bricks of mass produced “cheese product” we melt in our macaroni.
I was also interested because my maternal grandfather, the son of German immigrants, rang in each New Year with a cheese that grandma insisted he go outside to eat. I don’t know if it was Liederkranz, but suspect it was.
And so, a couple of years ago, I ordered some from a company in Wisconsin. The cost was about $40 per pound, a detail I did not mention to my wife. Shipping added to that amount. I put it in the refrigerator to await the holidays.
Wife, on an evening while I was away, decided to try just a bite. Upon piercing the double-foil wrapper she was enveloped by an overwhelming odor. Liederkranz is a type of Limburger. She re-wrapped it, but the damage was done. By morning the entire refrigerator reeked. She assumed it was badly spoiled and gave this costly delicacy to our chickens. The girls apparently have no sense of smell.
When I learned the fate, I ordered another package. I also called Delmar Scott, a Texas friend, retired shrimper and owner of an RV park. Delmar has an adventuresome pallet and agreed to try it.
On New Year’s Eve, I put the Liederkranz, a bottle of German Dunkerfelder (2006), and some Wheat Thins on the table of Delmar’s clubhouse patio. I went inside to tell him the hour was at hand. A few minutes later, we emerged to find his cat, a malevolent predator named Pyro, on the table cleaning up the last remnant of my precious Liederkranz. I’d spent $100 for a taste of that cheese. Chickens got the first batch, and a cat the second.
Delmar, looking at the positive side, noted that Pyro was a fussy eater so it must have been good. He suggested we go inside and pay tribute to Emil Frey by melting some Velveeta for a batch of nachos.
I’ve ordered another package of Liederkranz. We’ll see how it goes this time.
Roy Marshall is a local historian and columnist for the Red Oak Express. He can be contacted at news@redoakexpress.com.